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Figure 13 White marble tile sill and Crossville Eco-tiles with 40% unused recycled tile content in our master bathroom form a distinctive backdrop for the Kohler fixtures. * The Bamboo in our Mannington flooring is a renewable resource. Another meaning of Green is how long a product lasts so you can lengthen the cycle of production and the energy use that goes with it. Our Certainteed Presidential Shake asphalt roofing has a 50-year limited warranty. The James Hardie HardiePlank concrete siding and trim on our home also has a 50-year limited warranty on the siding and a 15-year limited warranty on the pre-finished color coating.
THE HOME INCLUDES THESE GREEN ELEMENTS: GE ENERGY STAR qualified Profile appliances Renewable resource Mannington Bamboo floors Crossville Ceramic Eco-tiles made with SCS certified recycled content Baxi ENERGY STAR qualified Luna 3 boiler with integrated solar hot water panels Simonton ProFinish ENERGY STAR qualified low E double glazed windows Therma-Tru ENERGY STAR qualified exterior Doors Velux ENERGY STAR qualified skylights 50 year warranted pre-finished James Hardie HardiePlank concrete siding and trim 50 year warranted Certainteed asphalt architectural shingles Dow Tuff-R Rigid insulation on the exterior surfaces & Certainteed fiberglass insulation in the interior cavities Vermont Castings Defiant high efficiency non-catalytic converter wood stove Pinnacle Supplys high tech insulated double line water Time Saver Pipe
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The Important Role of Windows Windows play a very important role in a passive solar house. To facilitate maximum solar gain, our house had to be oriented so its long side faced due south. Our south wall contains most of our homes windows because south facing windows are net gainers, absorbing more energy during the day due to their direct exposure to the sun, then they will release at night. East and west windows are net zero, if they see the sun. They will release as much as they gain. North windows are total energy losers, which is why very few are on our north wall. High quality windows are a must. We have Simonton ProFinish ENERGY STAR qualified low E double glazed windows. While you can use either double hung windows or casement windows, casement windows have two distinct and unexpected advantages over double hung windows. Be aware that these are not your grandfathers metal rickety and draft prone single pane casement windows. Todays high tech casement windows are marvels. Vinyl is the material of choice for these windows. Not only are they maintenance free but they also are stable and do not expand or contract like wood or wood clad windows. The first advantage is that, because they crank open and closed, the harder the wind blows the tighter the seal becomes between the window gaskets and the window frame. The second advantage is that, since they crank open, they act as sails catching the wind from any direction and channeling it into the house. The breeze they direct can go a long way to maintain your comfort level before resorting to air-conditioning, if at all. The south windows also act as a switch to turn on and off your maximum solar gain. In the winter, the sun is low and shines directly through the glass, giving you maximum solar gain. In the spring, the suns height increases and reaches a high enough angle on the glass that much of the suns energy is refracted off the glass back outside, limiting your solar gain. In the fall the suns angle falls again, turning on your maximum solar gain by directly passing through the glass again. Screens also alter your solar gain. In the late fall, winter and early spring we take our screens out for maximum solar gain. When we put them in, they decrease our solar gain by about 20%, creating a simple way of keeping the house cooler as the season heats up.
Eaves Regulate Solar Gain Our 4 ft. eaves also limit solar gain seasonally. As the sun gets lower in the sky towards winter, all the suns energy comes in through the windows. As the sun gets higher after winter, the eaves begin to increasingly block more direct light from entering our home. Around June 20 there is no direct light coming into the south side windows on the 2nd fl. and only 18 of direct light penetration on the 1st fl.
Snow is Your Friend In a passive solar home, snow is your friend. On the roof it supplies additional insulation. An asphalt shingle roof is required so it will hold the snow instead of letting it slide off. On the ground the snow also helps you. The sun will refract light off the snow and through your windows increasing your solar gain.
Attic in the Thermal Envelope Another advantage of having the rigid insulation on the outside of the house (including the roof) is that, even though the attic is unfinished (fig 14), it is inside the thermal envelope of the house and is therefore heated usable space. | ||
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Figure 14 The attic during construction. Even though it remains unfinished, because it is in the thermal envelope, it is heated usable space. Notice the 2 ft. high knee wall to give the attic additional height, the Velux ENERGY STAR qualified skylight to provide additional light and the metal duct opening in the corner that brings heated air from the concrete slab thermal storage battery. To maximize the attic space we built 2 ft. high knee walls that gave the attic ceiling more height. The only air return for the house is in the attic. Warm air naturally rises up to the attic where it is drawn into grilles in a horizontal shaft at the peak of the attic ceiling. There it begins its rotation down the vertical shaft through the squirrel cage fan and then into the slab and back up throughout the house. The attic, 1st and 2nd floors are always within 3 degrees of each other because they are all in the thermal envelope.
Insulation and the Dew Point The two layers or 2 thick Dow Tuff-R rigid polyurethane insulation are installed on the outside of the house over the sheathing to prevent the dew point from entering the house. Before you glaze over thinking this is just a technical explanation, be aware that the dew point entering traditionally built homes with fiberglass insulation in the exterior walls can cause fiberglass to perform as little as 1/3 of the rated efficiency. Fiberglass insulation values are determined assuming the fiberglass stays dry so the air trapped in it can act as an insulator. However, air seepage invariably allows moisture in the walls. The dew point is the point at which cold air meets warm air and the humidity in the air precipitates out to form water, just like the water droplets you see on the outside of a glass of ice water in warm weather. The colder it gets, however, the deeper in the walls the dew point penetrates. In the interior of the walls the water wets the fiberglass insulation causing the fibers to clump together and diminishing the R-value of the insulation by as much as 2/3. The water can also run down the fiberglass strands and land on the sill plates. With no way out, the water can eventually rot out the sills. In our passive solar home, there is no insulation in the exterior walls because the rigid insulation outside the walls, roof and under the slab provide in excess of R27. That R27 is much more than the diminished value of R21 fiberglass insulation, lowered by the dew point, which actually can be as little as about R-7. There is, however, fiberglass insulation in our interior walls and ceilings where it can perform as rated because there is no dew point to diminish its R-value. Here it serves two purposes: to deaden sound for a quieter house and to provide clear channels for air flow throughout the house without air currents being siphoned off or seepage to occur through openings like outlets and lighting fixtures.
Central Air The duct system in the home offers another advantage. If we ever decided to have central air, the central air system only needs two dump points for the cold air in the house instead of air conditioning ducts throughout the house. One point is in the center of the attic ceiling and the other point is in the center transom on the 2nd floor. From those two points the cold air mingles with the warmer air in the house and that tempered mixture is sent through the ductwork to all points of the house. By sending tempered air through the ductwork, you eliminate the possibility of mold creation.
Solar Garage Our home has an attached 3-car garage that is insulated the same way as the house. The only difference is that it has no ductwork and has only a 6 slab. The windows still face south for solar gain. The garage doors are R-18. In the attic ceiling (fig 15) we used a modified truss so we were able to have a 6.5 ft. high by 11 ft. wide by 30 ft. long storage space above the garage. This is our basement. We would rather have our stuff high and dry than low and damp. This passive solar garage will not get below freezing even in severe weather.
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Figure 15 Attic storage space in our passive solar garage. This is our basement. We would rather have our stuff high and dry than low and damp.
Comfort in a Passive Solar Home Heat in a traditional home dries the home out as the winter progresses. You can feel the dryness (as little as 20% humidity) and you can experience it with doors and windows that stick in the summer and are loose in the winter. Heat used to dry out your home costs you extra money and a dry house must be warmer to keep you comfortable. In our passive solar home the humidity is always about 40% to 50%. Between the modest humidity and the HEPA-like filter cleaning the air constantly, people have said the house feels very comfortable to be in. | ||
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